In many homes around the Philadelphia suburbs and South Jersey, the basement is where the laundry lives, often along with the water heater, furnace and a spare freezer. That puts a lot of expensive equipment at the lowest point of the house, which is exactly where water goes.
The region has been reminded of that more than once. The Delaware River flooded repeatedly between 2004 and 2006, putting water into homes in river towns such as Yardley, Morrisville and Trenton, with Bristol, Burlington and other riverfront communities also exposed. In September 2021, the remnants of Hurricane Ida flooded parts of Montgomery and Bucks counties, with the Schuylkill overrunning low ground in Norristown, Bridgeport and Conshohocken and smaller creeks spilling into neighborhoods well away from either river. And anywhere, an intense downpour can overwhelm storm drains and sewers and push water back up through a basement floor drain in a home far from any waterway.
This guide is about planning ahead: deciding which appliances to raise, how to do it safely, and what to check if they do get wet.
Know which kind of water you are dealing with
Your plan depends on how water gets into your basement.
- •River or creek flooding. Rising surface water that can enter through windows, doors and foundation walls. This is the risk along the Delaware in towns like Yardley, Morrisville, Bristol, Burlington and Trenton, along the Schuylkill at Norristown, Bridgeport and Conshohocken, and in low-lying areas near smaller creeks. It can bring a lot of water quickly.
- •Sewer backup. During heavy rain, water from overloaded sewers can come up through floor drains, laundry tubs and basement toilets. It is usually shallower but is contaminated.
- •Groundwater seepage. Water through the foundation or slab in damp basements, common in older homes. Usually slow and shallow, but constant.
FEMA flood maps show mapped flood zones from rivers and creeks, but they do not capture sewer backups or seepage. Your own history, and your neighbors', is often the best guide. Ask how high the water got on your street during Ida or the Delaware floods.
If sewer water comes up through your floor drain or basement toilet, ask a licensed plumber whether a backwater valve makes sense for your sewer line, and check with your municipality or sewer authority about any rules or assistance. Keep in mind that a backwater valve only stops water coming back through the sewer line; it does nothing for seepage through walls or the floor.
Decide what to raise
Not every appliance can or should be raised. Prioritize by cost and by how badly water damages it.
| Appliance | Flood vulnerability | Practical option |
|---|---|---|
| Washer | Motor, pump and control board near the floor | Raise on a sturdy platform or pedestal, or relocate |
| Dryer | Motor, heater or burner and controls near the base | Raise with the washer, or relocate |
| Chest or upright freezer | Compressor and controls at the base | Raise on a platform, or move upstairs |
| Second refrigerator | Same as freezer | Move to a higher floor if water is likely |
| Water heater and furnace | Burners, controls and electrical | Licensed plumber or HVAC contractor only |
Building or buying a platform
A laundry platform is the most common approach. Some practical points:
- •Strength. A front-load washer at full spin puts strong, shifting forces on whatever it sits on. A platform must be stiff, solidly built, and fastened so it cannot rack or wobble. A flimsy platform will make the washer walk off it.
- •Height. Decide on a target height based on your history of water in the basement, with some margin. Make sure there is still room overhead for the dryer and for the vent connection.
- •Manufacturer pedestals. Many brands sell pedestals designed for their washers and dryers. They raise the machine and add a drawer, but check how much height they actually add; it may not be enough for real flood protection.
- •Stacked pairs. Many stacking kits are not meant to sit on a pedestal or platform. Read our stacking compatibility check before raising a stacked pair.
- •Level. The platform must be level and the machines leveled on it, just as on the floor.
- •Access. Remember the steep, narrow basement stairs in many older homes. Getting a washer onto a high platform and off it again later needs room to work.
Raise the hookups too
Raising the machines without raising their connections does not protect much.
- •Electrical. Receptacles for the washer and dryer should be above expected water levels. Moving or adding receptacles, and any work on the panel if it sits low in the basement, is a job for a licensed electrician, who can advise on permits from your township or borough code office (in Pennsylvania) or your town's construction official (in New Jersey).
- •Gas. The gas shutoff for a gas dryer should be easy to reach above the platform. Gas piping changes go to a licensed plumber.
- •Water and drain. Valves above the washer, and a drain standpipe or laundry sink that still works with the washer raised. Our article on washer standpipe height covers how drain height interacts with the washer.
- •Dryer vent. Raising the dryer changes where the vent connects. Keep the run short and use rigid metal.
Consider moving the laundry entirely
If your basement has flooded more than once, relocating laundry to a first-floor closet or upper floor may make more sense than building higher and higher platforms. That brings its own requirements: floor strength, a drain, a vent route and a drain pan. It also means water and power need to be run to the new spot. For many households it is the only real long-term fix.
Before a storm
If a major storm is forecast and your basement has flooded before:
- Unplug basement appliances you can safely reach, with dry hands and a dry floor.
- Turn off the water supply valves to the washer.
- Move small items, detergent and anything that can float up off the floor.
- Make sure any sump pump is working and its discharge line is clear.
- Never enter a basement with standing water if power is still on. Water and electricity together are deadly.
After water gets in
- •Do not turn anything on. Keep power off to the basement until it is safe; if the panel or receptacles were underwater, have an electrician check them before restoring power.
- •Gas appliances. If a gas dryer, water heater or furnace was submerged, do not relight or use it. Have it inspected by a qualified technician or contractor. Gas controls that have been underwater are generally replaced rather than reused.
- •Washers and dryers. Water that reached the motor, pump, control board or wiring often means those parts need replacement. Sewer backup adds contamination.
- •Refrigerators and freezers. Discard food that sat in a unit that lost power or was in contact with floodwater. A compressor or control that was submerged needs evaluation before you plug it in again.
- •Document damage with photos for insurance before removing anything.
When to call a technician
After a flood, a careful inspection is what tells you whether an appliance is worth repairing. A technician can check motors, pumps, boards and wiring for water damage and tell you honestly which machines can be saved. If your washer, dryer, refrigerator or freezer was in a basement that took on water, see our washer repair and refrigerator repair pages, then book a visit online once the space is dry and safe.